Ascorbyl Glucoside VS. Ascorbyl Palmitate: He Tātaritanga Whakataurite

II. Ascorbyl Glucoside

He momo pumau te Ascorbyl glucoside o te huaora C, he wairewa-wai, ā, he ngāwari ki te mimiti e te kiri. He ranunga o te waikawa ascorbic me te glucose, e āwhina ana ki te whakapai ake i te pumau me te wātea o te huaora C. E mōhiotia ana te Ascorbyl glucoside mō tōna kaha ki te whakamārama i te kiri, te whakataurite i te tae o te kiri, me te whakaiti i te āhua o ngā ira pōuri me te whero-pango. He āhuatanga ārai-mumura anō hoki tōna, e pai ai mō ngā momo kiri tairongo.

A. Hanganga Matū me ngā Āhuatanga

Ko te Ascorbyl glucoside he mea hanga mai i te huaora C ka hangaia mā te whakakotahi i te waikawa ascorbic me te glucose. Mā tēnei hanganga matū ka whakarei ake i te pumau me te wairewa o te huaora C, ka pai ake ai mō ngā hanganga tiaki kiri. He wairewa te Ascorbyl glucoside, ka ngāwari ai te mimiti e te kiri, ka hua ake te tuku pai o te huaora C ki ngā pūtau ūnga.

B. Te Pūmautanga me te Wātea Mai o te Koiora

Ko tētahi o ngā painga matua o te ascorbyl glucoside ko tōna pumau. Kāore i rite ki te waikawa ascorbic parakore, he ngāwari ki te waikura me te pirau ina pāngia e te hau me te mārama, he nui ake te pumau o te ascorbyl glucoside, ā, he mea pai mō ngā hua tiaki kiri. Hei tāpiri, ko tōna bioavailability kua whakarei ake ka taea te uru pai ki roto i te kiri, ka tukuna ngā painga o te huaora C ki ngā paparanga hohonu o te kiri.

C. Ngā Painga mō te Kiri

He maha ngā painga o te Ascorbyl glucoside mō te kiri. Ko tana mahi matua he ārai i te kiri mai i ngā kino o ngā rauropi kore utu i puta mai i ngā taumahatanga taiao pēnei i te hihi UV me te parahanga. Hei tāpiri, he mahi nui tana ki te aukati i te hanga melanin, ā, ka āwhina ki te whakamārama i te kiri, ki te whakaiti i te whero o te kiri, me te whakataurite i te tae o te kiri. Hei tāpiri, kua kitea he āhuatanga ārai-mumura tō te ascorbyl glucoside, ā, he pai mō te whakamarie me te whakamārie i te kiri tairongo, kiri riri rānei.

D. Te Whai Hua mō ngā Momo Kiri Rerekē

He pai te ascorbyl glucoside ki ngā momo kiri rerekē, tae atu ki te kiri tairongo. Nā te āhua wairewa-wai me te ngawari o te hanganga, kāore e tino pāwera, e tino pāwera rānei, ā, he kōwhiringa maha mō te hunga he rerekē ō rātou raruraru kiri.

E. Ngā Rangahau me ngā Rangahau e Tautoko ana i tōna Whai Huatanga

He maha ngā rangahau kua whakaatu i te whai huatanga o te ascorbyl glucoside i roto i te tiaki kiri. Kua whakaatuhia e ngā rangahau he whai hua ki te whakaiti i te hanga melanin, ka hua ake he kiri kanapa ake, he kiri ōrite ake. Hei tāpiri, kua whakaatuhia e ngā rangahau tōna kaha ki te whakakore i ngā rauropi kore utu me te tiaki i te kiri mai i te ahotea waikura. Kua whakaatuhia hoki e ngā whakamātautau haumanu ka taea e te whakamahinga o te ascorbyl glucoside te whai wāhi ki te whakapai ake i te kakano o te kiri, te pakari, me te kanapa whānui.

 

III. Ascorbyl Palmitate

A. Hanganga Matū me ngā Āhuatanga

Ko te Ascorbyl palmitate he hua matū wairewa-ngako o te huaora C ka hangaia mā te whakakotahi i te waikawa ascorbic me te waikawa palmitic. Mā tēnei hanganga matū ka taea e ia te whai kiko ki te kiri, ka taea ai e ia te uru pai atu ki te arai ngako o te kiri. Nō reira, he maha ngā wā ka whakamahia te ascorbyl palmitate i roto i ngā whakatakotoranga tiaki kiri e hiahia ana kia hohonu ake te urunga ki te kiri me te roa o te mahi antioxidant.

B. Te Pūmautanga me te Wātea Mai o te Koiora

Ahakoa he pai ake te urunga o te ascorbyl palmitate ki te kiri, he mea nui kia mōhio he iti ake tōna pumau i ētahi atu hua o te huaora C, inā koa i roto i ngā hanganga he nui ake ngā taumata pH. Ka taea e tēnei pumau iti te arahi ki te wā roa me te pirau pea i roto i te wā. Heoi, ina tika te hanganga, ka taea e te ascorbyl palmitate te whakarato i ngā painga antioxidant pumau nā tōna kaha ki te penapena i roto i ngā paparanga lipid o te kiri.

C. Ngā Painga mō te Kiri

He kaha te mahi a te Ascorbyl palmitate hei ārai i te kiri mai i te ahotea waikura me ngā kino o te taiao. Nā tōna kaha ki te uru atu ki te arai ngako o te kiri ka taea e ia te whakamahi i ōna pānga ārai i roto i ngā paparanga hohonu o te kiri, ka taea ai e ia te whakakore i ngā rauropi kore utu me te tautoko i te hanga collagen. Nā tēnei ka tino whai hua mō te aro atu ki ngā tohu o te koroheketanga, pērā i ngā raina angiangi, ngā kita, me te ngaronga o te ngāwari.

D. Te Whai Hua mō ngā Momo Kiri Rerekē

He pai te ascorbyl palmitate mō ngā momo kiri rerekē, engari nā te āhua wairewa-ngako ka pai ake mō te hunga he kiri maroke, he kiri pakeke rānei. Ko tōna kaha ki te uru pai ki te arai ngako o te kiri ka taea te whakarato i te makuku me te tiaki antioxidant mō te hunga he āwangawanga kiri motuhake.

E. Ngā Rangahau me ngā Rangahau e Tautoko ana i tōna Whai Huatanga

Kua whakaatuhia e ngā rangahau mō te ascorbyl palmitate tōna whai huatanga ki te tiaki i te kiri mai i ngā kino i puta mai i te UV, te whakaiti i te ahotea waikura, me te whakatairanga i te hanga collagen. Kua whakaatuhia hoki e ngā rangahau tōna kaha ki te whakapai ake i te kakano o te kiri me te whakaiti i te ahua o ngā kita. Heoi, me nui ake ngā rangahau kia tino mārama ai ki ōna painga me ōna herenga e pā ana ki ētahi atu huakita C.

IV. Tātaritanga Whakataurite

A. Te Pūmautanga me te Ora o te Wāhi Noho

Ina whakatauritea te ascorbyl glucoside me te ascorbyl palmitate i runga i te pumau me te roa o te oranga, e kitea ana he pai ake te pumau o te ascorbyl glucoside, inā koa i roto i ngā hanganga he teitei ake te taumata pH. Nā tēnei pumau kua whakarei ake ka waiho hei whiringa pono ake mō ngā hua tiaki kiri e hiahia ana kia roa ake te oranga. I tētahi atu taha, ahakoa he whai hua te ascorbyl palmitate ki te uru ki te arai ngako o te kiri, tera pea he poto ake te oranga o te wā, ā, he ngawari ake te pirau i roto i ētahi hanganga.

B. Te Whakaurunga Kiri me te Wātea Koiora

He painga tō te Ascorbyl palmitate, he matū wairewa-ngako, mō te urunga ki te kiri me te wātea ki te koiora. Nā tōna kaha ki te uru ki te arai ngako o te kiri ka taea e ia te toro atu ki ngā papa hohonu o te kiri, ka taea ai e ia te whakaatu i ōna pānga antioxidant me te anti-chronicity. He rerekē, ko te ascorbyl glucoside, he wairewa-wai, tera pea he herenga mō te uru hohonu ki te kiri pērā i te ascorbyl palmitate. Heoi, he mea nui kia mōhio ka taea e ngā matū e rua te tuku i te huaora C ki te kiri, ahakoa he rerekē ngā tikanga.

C. Te Whai Huatanga ki te Whakaora i ngā Āwangawanga Kiri

Kua whakaatuhia e te ascorbyl glucoside me te ascorbyl palmitate te whai huatanga ki te whakatika i ngā raruraru kiri. He tino whai hua te ascorbyl glucoside ki te whakamārama i te kiri, te whakaiti i te whero o te kiri, me te whakarato i te tiaki antioxidant. He pai hoki mō te hunga he kiri tairongo nā tōna āhua ngawari. I tētahi atu taha, ko te kaha o te ascorbyl palmitate ki te uru ki te arai lipid o te kiri he mea tino pai mō te whakatika i ngā tohu o te koroheketanga, pērā i ngā raina angiangi, ngā kita, me te ngaronga o te ngāwari. Ka tukuna hoki e ia he mahi antioxidant roa i roto i ngā paparanga lipid o te kiri.

D. Te Whai Hua mō ngā Momo Kiri Rerekē

Mō te pai mō ngā momo kiri rerekē, he pai te ascorbyl glucoside mō te tini o ngā momo kiri, tae atu ki te kiri tairongo. Nā tōna āhua wairewa-wai me tōna ngawari o te hanganga, he kōwhiringa maha mō te hunga he rerekē ngā raruraru kiri. Ahakoa he pai te ascorbyl palmitate, he pai ake pea mō te hunga he maroke ake, he pakeke ake rānei te kiri nā te mea he wairewa-ngako, ā, he kaha hoki ki te whakarato i te makuku me te tiaki antioxidant.

E. Ngā Taunekeneke Pea me Ētahi Atu Kai Tiaki Kiri

He hototahi te ascorbyl glucoside me te ascorbyl palmitate ki ngā momo kai tiaki kiri. Heoi, he mea nui kia whakaarohia ngā taunekeneke pea me ētahi atu kai hohe, ngā mea tiaki, me ngā wāhanga hanga. Hei tauira, tera pea he pumau ake te ascorbyl glucoside i roto i ngā hanga me ētahi antioxidants, engari ko te ascorbyl palmitate me whai whakaaro ki ngā hanga motuhake hei ārai i te waikura me te pirau.

V. Ngā Whakaarohanga Whakatakotoranga

A. Hototahi ki Ētahi Atu Kai Tiaki Kiri

I te hanga hua tiaki kiri me te ascorbyl glucoside, te ascorbyl palmitate rānei, he mea nui kia whakaarohia te hototahitanga o ēnei ki ētahi atu kai tiaki kiri. Ka taea te whakakotahi i ngā mea e rua me te maha o ngā kai tāpiri, pērā i ngā antioxidants, ngā whakamakuku kiri, me ngā kaihoko pare rā, hei whakarei ake i tō rātou whai huatanga me te pumau.

B. Ngā Whakaritenga pH me ngā Werohanga o te Hanganga

Tērā pea he rerekē ngā whakaritenga pH me ngā wero hanganga o te Ascorbyl glucoside me te ascorbyl palmitate. He pumau ake te Ascorbyl glucoside i roto i ngā hanganga he nui ake ngā taumata pH, engari ko te ascorbyl palmitate me whai tikanga pH motuhake hei pupuri i tōna pumau me tōna whai huatanga. Me āta whakaaro ngā kaihanga hanganga ki ēnei whakaritenga i te wā e whakawhanake ana i ngā hua tiaki kiri kia pai ai te mahi.

C. Te Pūmanawa mō te Waikura me te Whakangaromanga

Ka ngāwari ngā matū e rua ki te waikura me te pirau ina pāngia e te hau, te mārama, me ētahi āhuatanga hanga. Me mahi ngā kaihanga i ngā mahi hei tiaki i ēnei matū mai i te pirau, pērā i te whakamahi i ngā takai tika, te whakaiti i te pānga ki te hau me te mārama, me te whakauru i ngā matū whakau hei pupuri i tō rātou whai huatanga i roto i te wā.

D. Ngā Whakaaro Whaihua mō ngā Kaiwhakawhanake Hua Tiaki Kiri

Me whai whakaaro ngā kaiwhakawhanake hua tiaki kiri ki ngā āhuatanga mahi pēnei i te utu, te wātea, me ngā whakaaro ture ina whiriwhiri ana i waenga i te ascorbyl glucoside me te ascorbyl palmitate mō ā rātou hanganga. Hei tāpiri, me noho mōhio tonu rātou ki ngā whanaketanga hou o ngā hangarau hanganga me ngā mahi tahi o ngā kai hei whakapai ake i te mahi a ngā hua huaora C i roto i ngā hua tiaki kiri.

VI. Whakamutunga

A. Whakarāpopototanga o ngā Rerekētanga Matua me ngā Mea ōrite

Hei whakarāpopototanga, he rerekē ngā painga me ngā whakaaro o te ascorbyl glucoside me te ascorbyl palmitate mō ngā hanganga tiaki kiri. He tino pai te Ascorbyl glucoside mō te pumau, te pai mō te kiri tairongo, me te aro ki ngā āwangawanga e pā ana ki te whakamārama me te whakaputa kiri whero. I tetahi atu taha, ka tukuna e te Ascorbyl palmitate te kaha ake o te urunga ki te kiri, te roa o te mahi antioxidant, me te whai hua ki te aro ki ngā tohu o te koroheketanga.

B. Ngā Taunakitanga mō ngā Hiahia Tiaki Kiri Rerekē

I runga i te tātari whakatairite, ka taea te whakarite i ngā taunakitanga mō ngā matea tiaki kiri rerekē kia rite ki ngā āwangawanga motuhake o te tangata takitahi. Mō te hunga e rapu ana i te kanapa me te tiaki antioxidant, ko ngā hua kei roto ko te ascorbyl glucoside pea te mea pai ake. Ko te hunga e āwangawanga ana mō te koroheketanga me te tautoko collagen ka whai hua pea i ngā whakatakotoranga kei roto ko te ascorbyl palmitate.

C. Ngā Rangahau me ngā Whakawhanaketanga ā-Mārama mō ngā Huaora C

I te whanaketanga tonu o te ao tiaki kiri, he mea nui te rangahau me te whanaketanga tonu i ngā hua o te huaora C hei hura i ngā māramatanga hou mō tōna whai huatanga, tōna pumau, me ōna hononga pea ki ētahi atu kai tiaki kiri. Tērā pea ka ārahi ngā whanaketanga ā muri ake nei ki te whanaketanga o ngā whakatakotoranga hou e whakamahi ana i ngā āhuatanga ahurei o te ascorbyl glucoside me te ascorbyl palmitate hei aro atu ki te whānuitanga o ngā āwangawanga tiaki kiri.

Hei whakamutunga, mā te tātaritanga whakatairite o te ascorbyl glucoside me te ascorbyl palmitate ka kitea he māramatanga nui mō ō rāua āhuatanga, painga, me ngā whakaaro mō te hanganga. Mā te mārama ki ngā painga motuhake o ia momo, ka taea e ngā kaihanga hua tiaki kiri te whakatau whai whakaaro ki te waihanga i ngā hanganga whai hua me te whakarite kia tutuki ai ngā hiahia kanorau o ngā kaihoko.

Ngā Tohutoro:

Kottner J, Lichterfeld A, Blume-Peytavi U. Te ngaronga o te wai transepidermal i roto i ngā tāngata hauora taitamariki me ngā kaumātua: he arotake pūnaha me te tātaritanga whānui. Arch Dermatol Res. 2013;305(4):315-323. doi:10.1007/s00403-013-1332-3
Telang PS. Huaora C i roto i te dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013;4(2):143-146. doi:10.4103/2229-5178.110593
Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. Ngā mahi a te huaora C ki te hauora kiri. Ngā matūkai. 2017;9(8):866. doi:10.3390/nu9080866
Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Ngā pānga ārai-mumura me te whakatika i te ārai kiri o te paninga o ētahi hinu tipu. Int J Mol Sci. 2017;19(1):70. doi:10.3390/ijms19010070